Holy Week is a really huge ordeal in Quito. The entire is abuzz city with ritual and fervor. "Sacred Concerts" happen all week, along with ceremonies, and various artistic and cultural events.
We attended the Good Friday Mass Procession, a trek that at a normal pace would take thirty minutes, but continues for five long hours. People gather in front of the San Fransisco Church in droves to watch festivities, sell religious wares, and to dress up and walk the streets in honor of Jesus' trek to the cross.
(above: San Francisco Church and Plaza)
Most people were dressed as the conical–hooded cucuruchos, many as 
veronicas (veiled women who represent the women who washed the face of Jesus), some were dressed as Lazarus, Roman soldiers, and even Jesus himself. The population is primarily made up of healthy adults, although some people are elderly, some disabled, and some children. Many people were barefoot, and the pain of doing this in the Ecuadorian sun was evident on their faces and by their limps. Some had wrapped their feet in cardboard by the end of the trek.
Some people wrapped their bodies in barbed wire, their heads in thorns, or simply whipped themselves with knotted ropes or stinging nettles as they walked along. These people were, of course, dripping with small amounts of blood as their bare backs scorched in the hot sun of Quito.
Some people wore chains around their feet and hands, and many bore crosses, both large and small. The cross bearers were often crumpled over in pain by the home stretch. This is considered to be an act of penance.
The costumed people were accompanied by bands, all playing the same sad, drone-like song. In addition, hundreds of spectators joined the procession as it wound through the streets.As for us, we were seated on a comfortable balcony with a birds-eye view of the whole ordeal. We enjoyed chocolate fondue and fresh fruit along with cold cervezas (beer). We also had a hearty lunch of fanesca, which is a traditional meal that is only eaten during holy week, since the ingredients represent Jesus' disciples (twelve grains for twelve apostles) and are in line with the Catholic prohibition of red meat during holy week. I know Bert's Dad will want a recipe, so here's one . It is a very, very filling soup.
Back to the penitent:
Eventually these people were followed by the Virgin of Sorrows sculpted by Manuel Chili ’Caspicara’ in the 18th century, who is carried on a float by a dozen men. Following her was a likeness of Jesus the Almighty, sculpted from balsa wood in Quito in 1620 by Father Carlos, who is regarded as one of the great Franciscan artists. A priest on a loudspeaker read off Jesus’ death sentence, and we all threw rose petals at both statues.
As the procession was nearing it's end, the skies opened up in a torrential rain-shower, sending the massive crowds running for cover. We laughed from our balcony, most of the crowd fled to shelter, while many stayed to await Jesus' return. This was the most Jesus-centric Easter I have ever experienced, the obvious devotion and respect was striking.
Pigeons Flew Back and forth over the crowds all day.
A blind musician.
All the religious figures in the San Fransisco Church had their heads covered like this.
Nuts man, must have been a site to see, don't think my computer does it justice at all. I grin and cringe at the same time thinking of Bert & you laughing at the spectators running for cover. Represent us Americans well!!!
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