Holy Week/ La Semana Santa (28 March-April 4)

Holy Week is a really huge ordeal in Quito. The entire is abuzz city with ritual and fervor. "Sacred Concerts" happen all week, along with ceremonies, and various artistic and cultural events.






We attended the Good Friday Mass Procession, a trek that at a normal pace would take thirty minutes, but continues for five long hours. People gather in front of the San Fransisco Church in droves to watch festivities, sell religious wares, and to dress up and walk the streets in honor of Jesus' trek to the cross.




(above: San Francisco Church and Plaza)
Most people were dressed as the conical–hooded cucuruchos, many as veronicas (veiled women who represent the women who washed the face of Jesus), some were dressed as Lazarus, Roman soldiers, and even Jesus himself. The population is primarily made up of healthy adults, although some people are elderly, some disabled, and some children. Many people were barefoot, and the pain of doing this in the Ecuadorian sun was evident on their faces and by their limps. Some had wrapped their feet in cardboard by the end of the trek.







Some people wrapped their bodies in barbed wire, their heads in thorns, or simply whipped themselves with knotted ropes or stinging nettles as they walked along. These people were, of course, dripping with small amounts of blood as their bare backs scorched in the hot sun of Quito.







Some people wore chains around their feet and hands, and many bore crosses, both large and small. The cross bearers were often crumpled over in pain by the home stretch. This is considered to be an act of penance.






The costumed people were accompanied by bands, all playing the same sad, drone-like song. In addition, hundreds of spectators joined the procession as it wound through the streets.
As for us, we were seated on a comfortable balcony with a birds-eye view of the whole ordeal. We enjoyed chocolate fondue and fresh fruit along with cold cervezas (beer). We also had a hearty lunch of fanesca, which is a traditional meal that is only eaten during holy week, since the ingredients represent Jesus' disciples (twelve grains for twelve apostles) and are in line with the Catholic prohibition of red meat during holy week. I know Bert's Dad will want a recipe, so here's one . It is a very, very filling soup.




Back to the penitent:
Eventually these people were followed by the Virgin of Sorrows sculpted by Manuel Chili ’Caspicara’ in the 18th century, who is carried on a float by a dozen men. Following her was a likeness of Jesus the Almighty, sculpted from balsa wood in Quito in 1620 by Father Carlos, who is regarded as one of the great Franciscan artists. A priest on a loudspeaker read off Jesus’ death sentence, and we all threw rose petals at both statues.





As the procession was nearing it's end, the skies opened up in a torrential rain-shower, sending the massive crowds running for cover. We laughed from our balcony, most of the crowd fled to shelter, while many stayed to await Jesus' return. This was the most Jesus-centric Easter I have ever experienced, the obvious devotion and respect was striking.




Pigeons Flew Back and forth over the crowds all day.

A blind musician.











All the religious figures in the San Fransisco Church had their heads covered like this.

Englush

Being a native English speaker is a real advantage on the international front. Here in Ecuador, our English fluency is a skill that we have to offer. People here who have studied for years don't know certain subtleties of the language that we grasp effortlessly. For instance, there are several meanings for phrasal verbs like: 'break up', 'check out', or 'run into', which make them hard to learn. Also, it's hard to find a connection between things like "give the cold shoulder", "get cold feet" "breakout into a cold sweat", "quit cold turkey", "cold hard cash", etcetera.

According to Wikipedia, English is spoken by up to 1.8 billion people, and is one of the 6 official languages of the United Nations. It is also the international language of aeronautics, science, medicine, communication, entertainment, radio, diplomacy...

Most of the travelers we meet from all over the world can communicate in English, so it often becomes the mode of communication, the genuine lingua franca, at many of the social events we attend. Lucky us, we're 'experts' in English!

New Job & Stability

Now I have work again.

Team Stimulation: Go!
Team Financial Security: Go!
Team Spanish Classes: Go!
Team Plan Excursions: Go!


I must admit I was pretty blue about a thing or two.. and now I feel really grateful for what's come my way.


Work Details:

I don't think Bert mentioned this, but he works at a school called Cendia. Initially he was a conversation specialist, visiting different classrooms every hour to engage the students through activities and lessons that he would prepare in advance. Now he does that in addition to teaching his own class in the mornings.

I now work in the marketing department for a company that arranges cruises on luxurious catamarans. You can read about the company by clicking here, and see the cruisers by clicking here. A big portion of the job consists of stylistic writing and editing, which I'm very excited about. I'll also be teaching English for a few hours a day, and doing some other projects. Best of all, breakfast gets brought around the office every day at 10:30.

Almost Mugged, Twice

We weren't going to blog about this since Bert didn't want to worry his Mama.. but like all mammas everywhere have a way of doing, she found out about what he was trying to hide.

The first time we were together, and after Bert punched one of the three guys, they left us alone. The second time he was alone, and after he shoved one of the guys who was grabbing at him and cocked back his fist, they too left him alone.

We know that looking like we're not from here makes us targets since people assume we have extra money. Interestingly, none of the attempted robberies were by Ecuadorians, their skin was too dark for this region. The Ecuadorians in our classes all say that it's the neighboring countries and the people from the coast that make Quito dangerous. It seems like people everywhere typically blame the immigrants for the crime. Maybe it's true. Maybe immigrants are generally more desperate for resources, perhaps less protective of the atmosphere in the city they're inhabiting.

Because of all this, I've stopped working. I told my job I couldn't work nights anymore since I couldn't exactly fight off a group of males the same way Bert can. My employer let me know that they basically had zilch to offer me under my new requirements. That was followed by job offers that didn't pan out.. (employers tend to be pretty flaky around here) and a bout with illness on my part.

So now we're weighing our options, measuring our funds and considering how this unexpected time off of work needs to factor in with the rest of our trip. The uncertainty is teeming... But hey, ingenuity often comes out of uncertainty.