Bert in Vilacabamba!

Bert left for Loja on Thursday evening for a 15 + hour bus ride. He made it safely, although he was forced to sit though an improvised sermon on the bus, complete with hymns and a lengthy talk.

From there he caught a bus to Vilacabamba, which translates as 'sacred valley'. He ended up having a beer with an old man who wanted to practice English. A young boy tried to speak converse with him as well, but upon realizing that Bert's Spanish is limited, the boy settled for explaining that "God made all the plants".

Today Bert went for a four hour horse ride around Vilacabamba; and, tomorrow he'll head to his new home in the mountains of Sacred Suenos (Sacred Dreams) farm, accompanied by a burro carrying supplies.

He's said that the atmosphere is much more relaxed in the rural areas he's visiting. He'll be gone for approx three weeks, will come back for two, and probably return again.

For those of you who don't know, I'm still in Quito because I have some good work opportunities that I want to continue pursuing. Bert got tired of the politics at his job, and feels like he'll have a richer experience here by working on the farm. I'm looking forward to the return of what will soon become a very dirty, muscular, hairy Bert (the showers is a hose, and he will be working for 6-8 hours a day).

That's it. I'll update when I hear from him, he plans to make contact every weekend. He hasn't a phone or internet, and has to hike four hours both ways to get to a place that does.

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Holy Week/ La Semana Santa (28 March-April 4)

Holy Week is a really huge ordeal in Quito. The entire is abuzz city with ritual and fervor. "Sacred Concerts" happen all week, along with ceremonies, and various artistic and cultural events.






We attended the Good Friday Mass Procession, a trek that at a normal pace would take thirty minutes, but continues for five long hours. People gather in front of the San Fransisco Church in droves to watch festivities, sell religious wares, and to dress up and walk the streets in honor of Jesus' trek to the cross.




(above: San Francisco Church and Plaza)
Most people were dressed as the conical–hooded cucuruchos, many as veronicas (veiled women who represent the women who washed the face of Jesus), some were dressed as Lazarus, Roman soldiers, and even Jesus himself. The population is primarily made up of healthy adults, although some people are elderly, some disabled, and some children. Many people were barefoot, and the pain of doing this in the Ecuadorian sun was evident on their faces and by their limps. Some had wrapped their feet in cardboard by the end of the trek.







Some people wrapped their bodies in barbed wire, their heads in thorns, or simply whipped themselves with knotted ropes or stinging nettles as they walked along. These people were, of course, dripping with small amounts of blood as their bare backs scorched in the hot sun of Quito.







Some people wore chains around their feet and hands, and many bore crosses, both large and small. The cross bearers were often crumpled over in pain by the home stretch. This is considered to be an act of penance.






The costumed people were accompanied by bands, all playing the same sad, drone-like song. In addition, hundreds of spectators joined the procession as it wound through the streets.
As for us, we were seated on a comfortable balcony with a birds-eye view of the whole ordeal. We enjoyed chocolate fondue and fresh fruit along with cold cervezas (beer). We also had a hearty lunch of fanesca, which is a traditional meal that is only eaten during holy week, since the ingredients represent Jesus' disciples (twelve grains for twelve apostles) and are in line with the Catholic prohibition of red meat during holy week. I know Bert's Dad will want a recipe, so here's one . It is a very, very filling soup.




Back to the penitent:
Eventually these people were followed by the Virgin of Sorrows sculpted by Manuel Chili ’Caspicara’ in the 18th century, who is carried on a float by a dozen men. Following her was a likeness of Jesus the Almighty, sculpted from balsa wood in Quito in 1620 by Father Carlos, who is regarded as one of the great Franciscan artists. A priest on a loudspeaker read off Jesus’ death sentence, and we all threw rose petals at both statues.





As the procession was nearing it's end, the skies opened up in a torrential rain-shower, sending the massive crowds running for cover. We laughed from our balcony, most of the crowd fled to shelter, while many stayed to await Jesus' return. This was the most Jesus-centric Easter I have ever experienced, the obvious devotion and respect was striking.




Pigeons Flew Back and forth over the crowds all day.

A blind musician.











All the religious figures in the San Fransisco Church had their heads covered like this.

Englush

Being a native English speaker is a real advantage on the international front. Here in Ecuador, our English fluency is a skill that we have to offer. People here who have studied for years don't know certain subtleties of the language that we grasp effortlessly. For instance, there are several meanings for phrasal verbs like: 'break up', 'check out', or 'run into', which make them hard to learn. Also, it's hard to find a connection between things like "give the cold shoulder", "get cold feet" "breakout into a cold sweat", "quit cold turkey", "cold hard cash", etcetera.

According to Wikipedia, English is spoken by up to 1.8 billion people, and is one of the 6 official languages of the United Nations. It is also the international language of aeronautics, science, medicine, communication, entertainment, radio, diplomacy...

Most of the travelers we meet from all over the world can communicate in English, so it often becomes the mode of communication, the genuine lingua franca, at many of the social events we attend. Lucky us, we're 'experts' in English!

New Job & Stability

Now I have work again.

Team Stimulation: Go!
Team Financial Security: Go!
Team Spanish Classes: Go!
Team Plan Excursions: Go!


I must admit I was pretty blue about a thing or two.. and now I feel really grateful for what's come my way.


Work Details:

I don't think Bert mentioned this, but he works at a school called Cendia. Initially he was a conversation specialist, visiting different classrooms every hour to engage the students through activities and lessons that he would prepare in advance. Now he does that in addition to teaching his own class in the mornings.

I now work in the marketing department for a company that arranges cruises on luxurious catamarans. You can read about the company by clicking here, and see the cruisers by clicking here. A big portion of the job consists of stylistic writing and editing, which I'm very excited about. I'll also be teaching English for a few hours a day, and doing some other projects. Best of all, breakfast gets brought around the office every day at 10:30.

Almost Mugged, Twice

We weren't going to blog about this since Bert didn't want to worry his Mama.. but like all mammas everywhere have a way of doing, she found out about what he was trying to hide.

The first time we were together, and after Bert punched one of the three guys, they left us alone. The second time he was alone, and after he shoved one of the guys who was grabbing at him and cocked back his fist, they too left him alone.

We know that looking like we're not from here makes us targets since people assume we have extra money. Interestingly, none of the attempted robberies were by Ecuadorians, their skin was too dark for this region. The Ecuadorians in our classes all say that it's the neighboring countries and the people from the coast that make Quito dangerous. It seems like people everywhere typically blame the immigrants for the crime. Maybe it's true. Maybe immigrants are generally more desperate for resources, perhaps less protective of the atmosphere in the city they're inhabiting.

Because of all this, I've stopped working. I told my job I couldn't work nights anymore since I couldn't exactly fight off a group of males the same way Bert can. My employer let me know that they basically had zilch to offer me under my new requirements. That was followed by job offers that didn't pan out.. (employers tend to be pretty flaky around here) and a bout with illness on my part.

So now we're weighing our options, measuring our funds and considering how this unexpected time off of work needs to factor in with the rest of our trip. The uncertainty is teeming... But hey, ingenuity often comes out of uncertainty.

Spiral Mall

This is a New Town, Gringolandia, Mariscal District, Spiral Mall (there are a lot of names for this trendy-cafe-filled part of town). The sun pours down from the glass ceiling as you walk up the slanted pathway and past all the shops. There are also stairs, or an elevator for those who would like to start at the top.

The malls are over priced. Which means, that non-name brand things are sold at American prices. Name brand items are marked up -- we assume this is because of importing costs.
Camisetas (the text in the above-right photo) translates to 'shirts' (or rather: specific types of shirts). So apparently this funny half-woman is pasted outside this shop to demonstrate the wears.


As for the mannequins, there are a lot of hilarious mannequins here (Please note male-mannequins' tongue protruding from his face). The bubble butted plastic figures selling blue jeans are quite common... as that body shape is the norm regionally. Additionally, some shops have blow up butts that they display swimsuits on. We giggle like adolescents regularly.




In this particular mall, there were a lot of video game filled stores. We assume that this is a result of most Ecuadorians being unable to afford their own video game systems. Wages are lower here, and electronics are exponentially more expensive compared to The States as well. Almost all of the arcades were full of school kids, all playing soccer games.

Papallacta Hot Springs

About 40 miles east of Quito are hyperthermal, hypertonic, crystalline, mineral, sulfate and alkaline terreus.... hot springs. If it sounds like a concoction which might claim to heal you, well, it is. A couple of the guys we traveled with claimed to have experienced the legendary healing powers firsthand. There are 8 pools of varying temperatures. Two of them are cold, and one is a river pool. We did our sacred duty and plunged alternately between hot and cold pools to get our blood flowing.


The springs are of volcanic origin, and are quite clear. We had the good fortune of having one of the smaller hot pools to ourselves for
about an hour.



This is the gang that we roll with.

Carnival

Carnival
Carnival was a little over three weeks ago, which is about how long it's been since Bert or I have posted here. We went on a trip at that time, and experienced a lot of things that were quite new to us. I'd really like to share more than I think an appropriate amount to post here..

Carnival is a time when big cities like Quito are evacuated, as virtually the entire country heads to the beach.
If you are walking down the street within a few days of Carnival, people may try to throw water, paint, or shaving cream at you from the rooftops, or even from as they pass you on the street. No degree of formality in dress or swagger will spare you from the splatter of this custom.






Santo Domingo de Los Colorados
Along the bus ride to Santo Domingo, we became aware of the absurd amount of waterfalls we were passing, and then counted 44 waterfalls within about twenty minutes. Our house-mate's friend's brother (yep, that's who.) came to pick us up at the bus station. He then rode a series of buses with us back to his families house. The home was humble, and the family seemed very close.
We got to spend a lot of time with them, and their extended family, which was an honour. That evening we went swimming in a river, and then slept in their spare room. Our house-mate's friend spoke a little bit of English, but for the most part we were totally immersed in, and only communicated in Spanish. That aspect was exhausting.















Fruit Truck
The next day we rode in the back of a fruit truck with the family whose house we'd slept at, and their cousins. We also sometimes rode on top of the cover. Safety, shmafety-- is much less regulated here.


The drive to the coast (the city of Pedernales) was about four hours of stunning mountainous scenery, and quaint roadside towns. Lovely. Every so often people from the side of the road would attempt to, or succeed in drenching us.














On the coast
We swam in the pacific, Yess! We ate every meal with the family. Breakfast lunch and dinner included fried cheese, rice, and plantains (which is basically a starchy banana, and can be cooked in many different ways). There wasn't a shower, so we bathed in our swimsuits, drawing water from a big vat of water in the backyard. Usually, if anyone was bathing, about 5 other people were also dipping buckets into the vat and pouring water over their heads.












Most of the family slept under mosquito nets, but not all of them, and not us. There simply weren't enough. We got a rash of bites.







Shark
Two of the meals had some seafood as well, fished straight from the ocean. The family's net also caught a shark. It was dead by the time it was found - very sad. Below is Uncle Clever (I love his name) untangling a fish from the net.





















The Kids!
We had a lot of fun with the kids. They were more on our level of Spanish, and were also interested in things like hearing the English versions of their friends' names. Some of them were so precocious and amazing, we wished we could have hung out with them regularly.